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Flag - Brazil Taking the rough with the smooth
29 March 2000

At times we undeniably land on our feet, and we did this big style in Sao Paolo. We've been using the apartment of a friend of a friend ('Terry the Playboy') as a base to leave our big rucksacks, and having finally met up with him, Terry has shown us the sights royally (even though wherever he's taken us we always look like scruffbags).

Terry's given us the keys to his 17th floor hotel apartment (rooftop pool, naturellement), taken us out to amazing bars and restaurants, and even taken us away to his fantastic beach condo (pool & tennis court, naturellement) for the weekend - and refused to let us pay for anything! With him we've drunk drinks we can't even pronounce (not surprising), given it our all in a karaoke bar (alcohol has that effect), and boogied in a nightclub - all things which are usually very cost-prohibitive for us 2!

At other times though, we definitely haven't landed on our feet - we spent 4 out of 6 nights last week on nightbuses. The worst of these, beyond a shadow of a doubt, was our epic/tortuous 2 nights on one coach 2000km north to Salvador de Bahia. We're talking 33hrs in cramped seats on-board an 'Éxecutivo' - closest seats to the toilet, right above the back wheel. What type of 'Executive' did they have in mind apart from uncomfortable ones? 33hrs of non-stop bouncing, nasty smells and being bumped into. Shocker.

Salvador was very nice - first place where the Portuguese originally landed, so loads of history, great old town, cobbled streets, colonial buildings and churches galore. From there we headed south to the towns around Belo Horizonte for more churches, sleepy villages with more horses & carts than cars, and to ride in an old steam train. Saw the "Twelve Prophets" - absolutely amazing lifesize statues by Aleijadinho, a master sculptor who lost his hands and feet from leprosy but still carved these masterpieces with chisels strapped to his wrists - we were suitably impressed.

And finally we made it to Rio de Janeiro (bit late for Carnaval!) - went up Corcovado to see the famous big old Christ the Redeemer, rode a tram around the old streets of Santa Theresa, caught a glimpse of the legendary Maracana stadium (home of Brazilian football), and checked out the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Came across possibly THE most tacky souvenir opportunity yet - having a photo taken of yourself in front of Christ the Redeemer and within minutes it's on a saucer - no we didn't indulge!

We've been treading very cautiously in Brazil - only ever using disposable cameras and only carrying the bare minimum of cash - and had no problems so far. If anything, the most difficult aspect of life out here has been the frustration of trying to get directions anywhere, from people who just won't admit that they know so little about the areas where they live/work. Being repeatedly sent off 3 random blocks away in scorching heat has left our patience less than virtuous many times. Still, can't wait to start taking decent photos again with our proper cameras!

Back in Sao Paolo now to collect our stuff, and moving inland to Mato Grosso do Sul for a swamp adventure (hopefully), and then overland to Bolivia or Peru.

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